One Ride

Chasing the
stoke
waves growing larger

Weekend
 warriors
still on the beach

Destiny
calling
mortality daring

Odds
go to hell
above twenty feet

Dropping
into
the thunder

The spray
to the
heavens

Darkness
envelops
one prayer to beseech

The sound
of a
monster

The
howl
of its fury

But nowhere
 on earth
—would I rather be

(California Surf: December, 2023)